Vol. IX · No. 042 · Established MMXXVI

Cloud Nine Chronicles

Per Aspera Ad Astra · A Journal of Travel, Photography, Sailing & Exploration
Saturday, May 30, 2026 Edition: Morning Weather: NW 12 kt, partly clear Price: Two Bits

Billie the Kidd

A goat named Billie, a church far too big for its island, and the well-practiced grammar of leaving.

Billie the Kidd

A cross on the high ground, the lagoon falling away on both sides, and a long way to look in every direction.

The Gambier keep handing us small islands to get lost on, and this week it was Mekiro and Akamaru. I met the two friends I have been sailing with in a pub in Brest, on the far side of the world, where I looked at the pair of them and said I did not know them but I thought I wanted to go wherever they were going. Five thousand nautical miles later the arithmetic still holds. There have been belly laughs and a fair number of mornings spent regretting the night before, and somewhere in the middle of it the three of us became something close to brothers.

On the shore of Mekiro we met a fourth. His name was Billie, and it did not occur to any of us at first that Billie was a goat. He took to one of my friends straight away, the way some animals decide a thing and simply commit to it, and led him off on a tour of the island while I got the drone up. By the time I caught the two of them they had an understanding. We spent the day hiking Mekiro together, all four, and it was a good day, the kind you do not narrate while it is happening because you are too busy being inside it.

Continue reading →

Fete des Meres

An evening in the hall at Rikitea for Fete des Meres, where the mothers of every age were the entire point.

Around Mangareva, More or Less

A planned departure becomes a foot-bound circumnavigation, a chicken-killing support dog, and a porch full of pearls.

Papeete: 35mm and F8

A few days walking Papeete with one lens, one aperture, and the city's quiet hours to myself.

From the Picture Desk

The Route So Far

2025 2026

The actual GPS track, traced from PredictWind. Filed dispatches plotted as dots.

Subscribe by Post

Recently in the Chronicle

Billie the Kidd

A goat named Billie, a church far too big for its island, and the well-practiced grammar of leaving.

Fete des Meres

An evening in the hall at Rikitea for Fete des Meres, where the mothers of every age were the entire point.

Around Mangareva, More or Less

A planned departure becomes a foot-bound circumnavigation, a chicken-killing support dog, and a porch full of pearls.

Papeete: 35mm and F8

A few days walking Papeete with one lens, one aperture, and the city's quiet hours to myself.

Green Yellow Red

Delivery day in Rikitea: the cargo ship pulls in every other week, and the whole island moves around her in a clash of primary colors.

The Green Flash

Two quiet anchorages in the Gambier interior, a long-rumored trick of the light, and the patience to be on a beach when the sun finally went down clean.

The Hike of Many Things

Ten kilometers and five hundred and fifty meters of climbing, with hand lines on the way up, a rope system on the way down, a drone in the bag, and a dog that took the home stretch personally.

Agakauitai: A Change of Scenery

Three days off the boat in the Gambier Islands, with a ridge hike, a hermit crab in a hibiscus flower, and a long quiet afternoon on a beach where the reef sharks ran the show.

And This Concludes Our Regular Programming

Rikitea, finally, after three thousand three hundred miles of pounding seas, two failed shrouds, and a ghost in the cabin that kept throwing the coffee.

Waking Up to the Last Full Day

A 28-knot squall in the dark, a quick trip up the companionway in nothing but a life jacket, and one egg left in the galley. Twenty-four hours from landfall.

3000 Woo Hoo

Three thousand miles done, the trade winds doing the work, and a galley turning out caramelized onions and filet mole somewhere past the half-way mark.

Back Under Sail

Five days of motoring done, the wind back where it belongs, and a happy dance underway in the head if not on the deck.

A Day of Calculations

Eight hundred and fifty miles to Gambier, three hundred miles of fuel, and a forecast that politely declines to commit. The math gets done, and the smoothies still blend.

Holding Course

Easter at sea, a wind that cannot quite commit, a cedar plug with new teeth marks in it, and a Moitessier quote that earns its keep before the day is over.

Finding Yourself Between the Miles

The days start to blend, the boat turns into a workshop, and the question of who you will be on the other side starts asking itself.

A Tough Day, a Better Morning

Yesterday was the kind of day this kind of trip occasionally hands you. Today is a quiet recovery, with five knots in the right direction and somewhere between eleven and twelve eggs left.

Sailing Can Be Busy

Birds threw a full party on the back deck overnight, the riggers need measurements you cannot easily take alone in the middle of the ocean, and the boat keeps moving anyway.

When the Ocean Tests You

A damaged shroud, three options, and the kind of night where you earn your miles a different way.

You Have to Be Some Where

A length of Dyneema, a block and tackle, fifteen minutes of work that arrived overnight courtesy of a tap on the shoulder from somewhere, and a rig that is once again holding.

Eye Don't Know

An extra eye on the floor, some scales, a small smear of blood, and no fish to be found.

Day at Sea, the Questions Everyone Asks

How do you sleep out here? Why are you doing this? After five days of conditions running on repeat, the better post is the one that answers the questions everyone keeps asking.

The Sun Is Shining (Bob Marley)

About 950 nm to go, the back pain finally walked off, and a small satisfaction looking at the tracker and thinking, I actually did that.

Ugh, Double Ughh

A loud bang that turned out to be the anchor freeing itself for some self-directed exercise on the side of the boat.

Day 3 of the Juice

Wind consistently over twenty, a confused sea state with waves arriving from a few different addresses, and a very small mahi mahi released back to grow up.

Fast and Furious

170 miles in a day, three of four communications down at once, and lightning at distance, beautiful and humbling in equal measure.

Across the Beam

160 nautical miles in a day, three reefs in, life on a 45-degree angle, and a coffee that has its own ideas about staying on the table.

Great Winds

Fifteen to twenty on the beam, two reefs in, and a third one going in before dark.

Major Troubles on the Flight Deck

Spinning the boat to test the wind indicator with the fishing lines still trailing behind, and the inevitable consequence: a successful catch of one's own rudder.

A Good Morning at Sea

A quiet night, a squall in the dark for a free rinse, two pieces of calamari delivered courtesy of the ocean, and a day that includes shaving for an actual meeting.

Gennie Is Back

Wind, speed, the gennaker up at sunrise, and a red-footed booby acting as unsolicited foredeck supervisor for the rest of the morning.

A Hectic Start, Leaving the Galápagos

A wind reading that briefly insisted it was a thousand knots, an autopilot that gave up at the wrong moment, and a Starlink subscription helpfully scheduled to activate in three more days.

Mordor

The sun is shining everywhere except exactly where I am headed, and the chart says that is where I am going.

Leaving Isla Floreana

A few quiet days, hiked, swam, photographed, and now an early start toward the next island while the conditions still want to cooperate.

Bye Bye Puerto Ayora

One last dive at Seymour Passage, a lot of cooperative wildlife on the way out, and a slightly bittersweet exit from a place that quietly grew on me.

Isabela

Three turtles, five sharks, a manta ray, and a four-foot stingray lifting off the sand right under you. The kind of stop that sets the bar for the rest of the trip.

A Week in Puerto Ayora

Four dives, sharks, sea lions, eels, turtles, and the kind of color you cannot quite remember accurately later. Time to shift the view.

This Leg Is Done

Anchor down in Puerto Ayora, customs paperwork on deck, and the soft post-arrival realisation that the solo equator party from last night might have run a little long.

Isla Pinta

An uninhabited live volcano, off the bow, finally proving that the chart was not just suggesting things.

Land in Sight

Land on the chart, an alien colony at the waterline, and a small amount of mild discomfort about being the last person aboard before going overboard.

Almost There but Not

A nice night, the engine back on, the current running the wrong way, and a rotating cast of feathered hitchhikers who clearly believe Cloud Nine has been chartered for their convenience.

Well That Was Interesting

A black wall of rain on the nose, a furler that picks the wrong moment to misbehave, and a quick decision to stuff the genoa through the forward hatch.

Easy Times

Sea state mellowing out, just enough wind to sail in earnest, and the Q flag and courtesy flag both up like the optimist that they are.

Long Night, Fast Speeds

A freighter on a steady collision course, a closest point of approach of 1.8 nautical miles, and a calculated gamble on radar that paid off.

Sunday

Relatively flat seas, good boat speed, somewhat on a close reach, and a heel angle that turns the day-to-day into a kind of indoor obstacle course.

Still Great Winds

Fifteen to eighteen on a beam reach, the wind angle improved, a hundred and ten miles in the bag already, and the makings of the highest-mileage day so far.

Happy Valentines Day

Steady wind, easy night, and a small case study in why squid jumping in the dark might not always work out for the squid.

OMG Sunsets

The whole sky goes orange. The water goes flat. There is no other agenda for the evening.

The Wind Has Arrived

A grey-footed booby with a poor judgment of fishing lures, a small rescue, a small bite for the rescuer's trouble, and the gennaker up at last.

Afternoon Update

A second skipjack on board, a 1.8 nm CPA the night before, an entourage of birds and a lone dolphin, and 17,471 nautical miles total under the captain.

Hmm, New Friend

Multiple attempts to get aboard, full success on the third or fourth, immediate consequences for the deck.

Great Morning

Sails up at first light, no traffic for twenty-four hours, and a quiet hot day ahead with sprouting on the menu.

Sailing Again

Ten knots, the right direction, and the engine off. That kind of day.

Ships Passing in the Night

Active AIS night, not a lot of sleep, the sweet spot at 2,100 RPM, and a radar that needed a polite reboot to remember its job.

Smooth Night

Quiet, motoring, about 150 nm a day, and one more day of celestial navigation practice on the way to the next bit of weather.

Moving Along

Wind held until 3 a.m., a flat-sea sunrise, a sea lion showing off, a pod of small dolphins paying a visit, and a new anchor and chain getting spliced in at sea.

The First Night

Smooth gentle seas, ten knots of wind, a 3/4 waning moon for company, and a wandering course that, for the record, has nothing to do with beer consumption.

Day 1 Greatness

Jacklines rigged high enough to keep me out of the water, sextant out, and fishing gear that has now donated its lures back to the sea.

Great Start

Wing-on-wing in nine to eleven knots, a knot of friendly current, and a moonrise so bright I briefly mistook it for a cruise ship aimed at me.

Leg 2 Commences

Pulling out of La Paz at three-thirty in the afternoon, with shoes off, shirt off, and the slow business of getting salty again.

On the Move

Back at the boat, El Norte through, three- or four-day shakedown trip underway. Gremlins on the autopilot switch and bow thruster, but nothing trip-ending.

Final Passage to La Paz

Great sailing, eighteen to twenty-five downwind, and the last sail of 2025 before heading back to Canada for the month.

Think I Stepped on This Guy

A really big flying fish, except for the spike at the end. ChatGPT identified it as a Mexican Needlefish.

Puerto Don Juan

The favoured hurricane hole up north. No moon, but a huge bay with nearly 360 degrees of protection. Easy entry even at night.

Scary Moment

Mixing a drink, a big noise, and the primary boom bolt on the skylight. Lucky we were motoring at the time.

Santa Rosalía

Great town, very authentic, definitely off the tourist trail.

Beam Reach Crazy Fun

West wind peeling off Baja, no real swell, fully reefed, eight knots boat speed, the main sheet working overtime, the cabin's port side now on starboard.

Passing Isla Coronados

Looks like a pretty place. Going a little further today, and it is a bit busy in there anyway.

Moving On

Did not feel right to enter the bay alone in the dark, so we are pressing on. Light winds, easy travel, no moon yet, very dark.

Indecisive

Anchor or sail. Tired, sick a few days, the unfamiliar bay tempting in the dark. Plan: swing in, see if it is straightforward, decide on the spot.

Cloud Nine on the Move

Breakfast hosted by SV Obelix, then off on an eight-day solo run up the Sea of Cortez to cover ground before the next Norther.

Motor Is Off

Back to sailing. Upwind, but better than listening to a motor.

Night Sailing

When you get a full moon and great winds at the same time, nothing beats it.

Wing on Wing

Great sail at fifteen knots, wing on wing, straight at La Paz, sun setting, full moon coming.

Beautiful Morning

Great night with the moon and a huge bay all to myself. Going to do a long day-night and head to La Paz.

Bahía La Salina

Beautiful huge bay, lots of white sand, and supposedly a sunken ship somewhere in it.

No More North

Close to Loreto, the turnaround for now. Heading back to La Paz to pick up a couple of weeks of guests.

Great Night, Isla San Francisco

Run in La Paz, short sail to Isla San Francisco, dinghy hike up the overlooking hills, tortoises and puffer fish hosting the boat on the way back.

On the Move

La Paz has been good to us. Heading toward Loreto. Tonight's anchorage looks beautiful.

Llegó a La Paz

Beautiful passage, tricky port to enter, lots of sandbars. Definitely not a night-time approach. La Paz is home for a few days.

Heading to La Paz

Two anchor nights at Los Frailes and Bahía Los Muertos, a spaghetti dinner aboard MV Grunt with AC, an early start to beat the afternoon chop.

Turned the Corner

Tunes blazing, butterflies everywhere. Rock the Casbah. The first margarita is calling.

Peeking Around the Corner

Hour to the corner, a few more to port. A sleepless night spent boat-watching and steering away from land. Looks like Baja has greened up.

Dramatic Skies and a Passing Magda Bay

Quick check-in. Good speeds, 175 nm left, less than 24 hours of solid sailing under beautiful skies.

190 NM Left

Solid consistent night in fifteen-twenty, sails up by feel in the dark, morning showers and 15-25, daylight arrival on track. Two flying fish for the frying pan.

LOL, Pacific Coast Is Smoking

Looks like a windy Thanksgiving up and down the coast. It's pretty peaceful out here right now.

Getting Some Amazing Sailing Conditions

Six to seven knots in ten knots of wind, super comfortable, in the right direction. New destination: San José del Cabo and family.

Back on the Sails

Black sails up, close-hauled on starboard, six knots toward the destination. Engine off. Five flying fish, sadly, are not going to make it.

Patience: Tested. Passed. Hmm, Not Sure

Two to three knots of current the wrong way for most of yesterday, four-knot averages, the boat bouncing, and a hooked something that straightened a hook on its way out.

Moving Along, I Think

A long bouncing day will soon be a long bouncing night, with night-time setup just done and a hope for sea-state mercy at some point.

Afternoon Update

Back half of Priscilla, the floor of the cabin a small museum of recently liberated objects, and tuna fins paying the lines a visit.

On the Move

Chunky day, perfect sunrise, dolphins and sea lions and pelicans playing off the boat, and a three-day passage to San José del Cabo on the way.

Anchored and Happy

Anchor down in the northeast corner of Tortuga Bay. Pelicans, a few other boats, and a bit of katabatic wind running ten knots before it weakens to the north.

Good Morning Tortuga Bay

Slight roll to the ocean, no complaints. Bay alive with sea lions and birds. Dot moving around noon.

Great Day

Twenty-plus on the wind, seven to eight on the boat, both black sails up. A couple of skipjacks shaken back off the lines.

Final Approach

Jibed to start working in. A couple of islands to pass, fishing lines down for dorado, sky doing dramatic things.

Cedros Island Conditions Report

Beautiful sunrise with the moon on watch, fifteen-twenty knots dropping to ten-fifteen, and an afternoon arrival into Turtle Bay with light to spare.

Night Time

Dark by seven, full moon already up, two-and-a-half knots of current pushing along, Turtle Bay tomorrow with light to spare.

Another Fish

This one is going in the dinner basket. Believed to be a yellowfin tuna.

Current Plans

Hurricane Priscilla tracking north off Cabo. Plan: head to Turtle Bay, settle in, wait for the swell and wind to ease.

Good Morning

Good miles in. Full moon, gorgeous sky. Ten knots downwind, motoring for now until the sun is properly up.

Pssst

The little dot is moving again. Left Ensenada at midnight.

The Little Dot

Main sail repaired by North Sails San Diego (with a small Tijuana detour to dodge a 1,200-dollar tariff on my own sail), Cloud Nine good to go, dot moving tonight.

The Last Hour

Sky moody but no punch. About an hour out. A great trip with a little bit of everything, and the coast and friends waiting on the other side.

Thought I Was Done for the Night

Sunset doing its work and a rocket launches from land and goes right over the boat, second-stage drop included.

Impromptu MOB Session

What looked like a floating bag of chips turned out to be a balloon. Cloud Nine to the rescue, one less marine-life trap on the surface.

The Last Night

Perfect temperatures, the boat bouncing across the water, a frothing tuna ball off the bow, and three years in the making about to end with an arrival.

Last Full Day

Pelican today, last of the diesel into the tank, 154 nm to go, daytime arrival in the books, and a craving for tacos and margaritas now a full-time tenant.

Just Motoring Along

But… land. San Miguel Island in the distance.

And So Starts the Motoring

No magic for this part. Heads down, motor to the line.

Good Night All

First freighter in five days, more deck time tracking ships through the night, and a little motor-sailing experiment.

Quick Update

Consistent winds, the bow turning toward the final destination, over a thousand nautical miles done, three hundred and fifty to go.

Good Morning

Twelve hours of average seven, just hit ten knots, the storm holding around twenty with gusts to thirty-five, and less than four hundred and nine miles to go.

The Wind Is Back

A solid fifteen knots for an hour straight. Happy boy.

Lunch

Home-made tortillas. Research centre needs more work, but tasty nonetheless.

Dolphin Time

Quiet night, lots of sleep, and a morning visit from old friends.

Strange Visit Last Night

A flying something at three in the morning, a brief panic, a flashlight, and a dragonfly that picked the wrong head to nap in.

Sweet Night

No wind, but a beautiful peaceful night on Earth.

ChatGPT Says I Make It

Five hundred and eighty-four nautical miles to Ensenada, half motoring at six knots, fuel math that fits inside the tank with reserve, and the question of whether a robot's confidence is a comfort.

Battery Charging Day

Chores, fixing things, problem-solving, motoring through calms, and the kind of fuel math that lets you sleep depending on which side you wake up on.

Some Days Your Days Go Like This

The YouTube videos were all bikinis and sunshine. Today is project nineteen and lunch has not happened.

Busy AM

Low-battery alarms before dawn, Starlink offline, autopilot suspect, hydrovane brought into service for the first time, and a few F-bombs sent to the ether.

All Good Out Here But Starlink Is Down

Working on getting it back. No comms in the meantime. Map will update around 5 pm.

Main Sail Tear

A three-to-four-foot tear in the leech of the main, spotted mid-day, sail down for now while a plan gets made.

Speedy Night

Bumpy, still bumpy, but flying along at a seven-knot average in twenty to thirty knots of wind.

Getting Ready for Night

Reef the sails for the forecast, walk the deck for the small things, then sit and watch the sun go down.

Fun Fact

When you sail south, your sails block your solar panels for a fair part of the day.

Plan Is Working

Wind has picked up to fifteen-twenty, wing-on-wing still doing its job.

Wing on Wing

Nice to see five to seven knots again.

Mendocino Escarpment

For reference: the underwater ridge that goes from three thousand feet to three hundred just south of Eureka, and the reason we are routing wide.

Day 5 Update

Easy going, more wind on order, wing-on-wing already set, and the route giving the Mendocino Escarpment a wide and respectful berth.

Lucky Day

Lots of bird activity, jumping circles of fish, and a yellowtail tuna delivered to the back of the boat on a hand line. Released, with respect.

Breakfast on the Deck

Day four, three hundred and twenty-five nautical miles in the bag.

All Things Are Great at the Moment

Sleep finally arrived at three, chores started at seven, Kalidog up, five and a half knots in the right direction.

Wind Switch

Neptune was kind. Within thirty seconds, the wind did a 180 and popped to thirty-five. The boat turned around, pointed at Canada, and a quick drop of the main sorted things out.

It's Been a Challenging Night

Wrong dinner, full sails in twenty-two knots, a hove-to manoeuvre to get the reefs in, and a whispered thanks to the ten-pound-six-ounce Sweet Baby Jesus.

Up Wind Blues

Twenty knots dead on the nose, eighteen hours of motoring already behind us, and the call to switch to sail because the digging-in had gotten old.

Good Morning

Great sailing till midnight, confused wind, sails down in pitch black, and a sunset visit from dolphins as the closing act.

Evening Chores

Kalidog put away for the night, the black sails up, seven knots holding, another beautiful sunset, and one tired skipper.

Put the Sails Up

Red gennaker (Kalidog) up in seven knots, then up to fifteen-twenty and we are running an eight-knot average. Sextant attempted, accuracy not yet certified.

Rounding the Cape

Still dark, fog so thick the light would not change anything, and the official turn-left point now astern.

Back to a West Heading

Always a small relief when the bow is no longer pointed at land at four in the morning.

Crossing the Traffic Separation Zone

Cutting the corner on the cape, flat seas, no wind, a small economy of distance for the cost of attention.

Arcturus

Chasing one of the brightest things in the sky for the night.

Race Rocks

Wind on the nose, dinghy up front for the first time, and three good reasons to keep the engine on through the night.

It Starts: Kids Don't Float Tour

Left at seven on the eighteenth into a beautiful night. Seventeen knots of headwind on flat seas, which is its own kind of unreasonable beauty.