On the move again today, not chasing miles, just changing the view. I am heading over to Isabela. The water is calm, so it should be about a seven-hour motor, an easy run by passage standards, and honestly it feels good to shift the scenery a little.

Santa Cruz turned out to be a quietly wonderful stop. I got four dives in, and the underwater inventory ran something like sharks, sea lions, eels, turtles, and a level of colour that does not really survive being remembered, only seen. There is a particular Galápagos blue down there, and a particular Galápagos quiet on top, and it is very easy to lose a week to that combination.

On land the sea lions effectively run the harbour, the way the locals all seem to have agreed they should, and you find yourself adjusting to their schedule rather than the other way around. The pelicans take the rocks. The teal take the sand. There is a working order out here, and it is comforting to see it operate without anyone having to explain it.

Looking forward to seeing what Isabela brings.